Printing
Screen, digital and sublimation printing.
What really happens at this stage
Garment printing covers three dominant technologies with different economics and hand-feel outcomes. Screen printing pushes ink through a stencil mesh using a squeegee, is cost-effective at higher volumes once screens are burned, and gives strong opacity on dark fabrics with plastisol or water-based inks. Digital direct-to-garment printing sprays fine droplets of ink directly onto fabric under computer control, suiting small runs, photographic detail, and quick changeovers without tooling cost, though throughput per piece is slower than screen printing. Sublimation transfers dye from a printed transfer paper to synthetic fabric under heat and pressure, bonding dye into the fibre itself rather than sitting on top, which gives a soft hand but works reliably only on polyester or polyester-blend substrates.
Choosing between methods depends on order quantity, design complexity, fabric type, and required wash durability, and many factories run more than one technology to cover their product mix. Registration accuracy, cure or fixation temperature, and ink deposit thickness are the main technical variables controlled at the machine, since under-cured prints crack or fade in washing while over-cured prints can scorch or stiffen fabric. Colour matching against approved lab dips or Pantone references is checked under standardised lighting before a print run is approved for production, and periodic wash testing confirms the print survives the garment's expected care cycle.
How it is done
- 1Approve the artwork and colour
Match separations or spot colours against approved references under standard light before releasing to production.
- 2Select the print method
Choose screen, digital, or sublimation based on order quantity, fabric type, and design detail required.
- 3Prepare screens or files
Burn screens with correct mesh count for screen printing, or set up RIP profiles and print files for digital and sublimation runs.
- 4Set registration and deposit
Align multi-colour registration within fine tolerance and set ink or dye deposit thickness for the design and fabric.
- 5Cure or fix the print
Run the printed garment or transfer through the dryer, heat press, or calender at the temperature and dwell time the ink or dye system requires.
- 6Wash-test and release
Run a wash cycle test on sample prints to confirm crack, fade, and adhesion resistance before releasing the bulk order.
Key metrics (indicative targets)
| Metric | Working target | Why it matters |
|---|---|---|
| Colour match accuracy | Within approved tolerance of lab dip | Off-shade prints cause customer rejection even when the print quality itself is sound. |
| Cure or fixation compliance | Meets ink or dye supplier's temperature and dwell spec | Under-cured prints crack and fade in wash testing, causing field returns. |
| Print defect rate | Under 2%, indicative | Tracks registration errors, pinholes, and ink bleed needing rework or rejection. |
| Wash durability pass rate | High pass rate on agreed wash cycles | Confirms the print will survive the garment's expected consumer care regime. |
| Changeover time | Minutes for digital, longer for screen setup | Affects small-lot responsiveness and machine utilisation planning. |
Targets are indicative working ranges, not standard or legal limits.
Control points to check and sign off
- Artwork and colour approval signed off before production release
- Screen mesh count or digital RIP profile matched to the design and fabric
- Registration checked on a live sample before running the bulk quantity
- Cure or fixation temperature and dwell time logged against the ink or dye specification
- Wash test results recorded before shipment approval
Common pitfalls and their consequences
- Approving artwork without a controlled-light colour check, leading to shade complaints
- Under-curing prints to save cycle time, causing cracking after a few consumer washes
- Using screen printing for very small runs, inflating cost through unnecessary screen setup
- Attempting sublimation on cotton-rich fabric, giving weak or patchy colour transfer
- Skipping wash testing before bulk approval, discovering adhesion failure only after shipment
Main activities
- Production planning and line balancing
- Cutting, bundling and sewing operations
- Printing, embroidery and value-add processes
Quality risks
- Print misregister
Sustainability risks
- Ink & water use
AI opportunities
- Automated print inspection
Official sources
Learn the skills used at this stage
Free GarmentEd lessons with worked calculations, checklists and practice questions for the work described above.
- Digital Garment PrintingPrinting & value addition
- Heat Transfer and SublimationPrinting & value addition
- Screen PrintingPrinting & value addition
- Value-Addition Quality and TestingPrinting & value addition
Also relevant: Embellishment Application, Value-Addition Safety and Chemical Controls.
Industry chapters that cover this stage
The GARMENT TECH Ed industry chapters whose lessons are applied here — each chapter has a reference page and a taught lesson you can read straight through.
- Chapter 14 · Textile Printing TechnologyMaterials & TextilesRead the chapter lesson
- Chapter 17 · Material Testing & Textile LaboratoryQuality & ComplianceRead the chapter lesson
- Chapter 25 · Sewing & Assembly AutomationManufacturingRead the chapter lesson
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