Fabric Inspection
4-point / 10-point, AI camera inspection and shade grouping.
What really happens at this stage
Fabric inspection determines whether a received lot is fit for cutting by scoring visible defects such as holes, slubs, oil marks, weaving faults, and shade variation against an accepted grading system, commonly a 4-point or 10-point scale. Under the 4-point system, defects are scored by length and severity, capped at 4 points per linear yard, and the lot's total defect points per hundred square metres are compared against an agreed acceptance threshold set with the buyer or brand. Inspection is typically done on a percentage sample of rolls per lot rather than every roll, using a defined sampling plan, with escalation to full inspection if the sample fails.
Modern fabric inspection increasingly uses AI-assisted camera systems mounted on inspection frames, which scan fabric at running speed and flag defects automatically by type and location, reducing dependence on inspector fatigue for repetitive fault detection. Alongside defect scoring, shade grouping is carried out by comparing rolls against a physical or digital shade standard under standardised lighting, sorting rolls into shade bands (A, B, C) so that a single garment or bundle is cut from one shade band only. Shade banding is critical because even fabric that passes defect scoring can produce visibly mismatched garments if rolls from different dye lots are mixed within the same style or bundle.
How it is done
- 1Select the sample rolls
Draw a defined percentage of rolls per lot per the agreed sampling plan, ensuring rolls from different production batches are represented.
- 2Mount and run the inspection frame
Feed each sampled roll through the inspection frame at a controlled speed with adequate lighting, or through an AI camera system if available.
- 3Score defects by the agreed system
Record each defect's type, length, and point value under the 4-point or 10-point scale as it is identified.
- 4Calculate points per hundred square metres
Total the defect points for the roll and convert to points per 100 square metres to compare against the acceptance limit.
- 5Group rolls by shade
Compare each roll to the shade standard under standard lighting and assign it to a shade band before it is released for cutting.
- 6Accept, hold, or reject the lot
Pass rolls within the acceptance limit to the cutting store, hold borderline rolls for re-check, and reject or negotiate on rolls exceeding the limit.
Key metrics (indicative targets)
| Metric | Working target | Why it matters |
|---|---|---|
| Defect points per hundred square metres | within the agreed acceptance limit for the order | directly predicts the rate of fabric-related garment rejects |
| Inspection coverage | per the agreed sampling percentage of rolls | ensures the sample is representative of the full lot |
| Shade banding accuracy | 100% of released rolls correctly banded | prevents shade mismatch within a single garment or bundle |
| Inspection turnaround per lot | within 24-48 hours of receipt | delays here push back cutting and threaten the T&A calendar |
| False accept/reject rate (AI systems) | low single-digit percentage | measures reliability of automated detection versus manual check |
Targets are indicative working ranges, not standard or legal limits.
Control points to check and sign off
- Sampling plan and acceptance limit are agreed with the buyer before inspection
- Inspection frame lighting and speed are set to standard conditions
- Defects are scored consistently using the same grading system throughout the lot
- Every roll is shade-banded before release to the cutting store
- Rejected or held rolls are physically segregated and documented
Common pitfalls and their consequences
- Inspecting at inconsistent lighting or frame speed, producing unreliable defect scores between shifts
- Mixing rolls from different shade bands into the same cutting bundle, producing visibly mismatched garments
- Relying solely on AI detection without periodic manual verification, missing defect types the system was not trained on
- Using a sampling percentage too small for a highly variable lot, letting defective rolls through undetected
- Releasing borderline rolls to cutting without a documented hold-and-recheck decision, creating unclear accountability for later claims
Main activities
- Production planning and line balancing
- Cutting, bundling and sewing operations
- Printing, embroidery and value-add processes
Quality risks
- Missed defects → cutting waste
Sustainability risks
- Fabric write-off
AI opportunities
- Defect map to cutting
Official sources
Learn the skills used at this stage
Free GarmentEd lessons with worked calculations, checklists and practice questions for the work described above.
Also relevant: Defect Classification and Inspector Calibration, Shade Control and Reproducibility, Textile Laboratory Testing.
Industry chapters that cover this stage
The GARMENT TECH Ed industry chapters whose lessons are applied here — each chapter has a reference page and a taught lesson you can read straight through.
- Chapter 15 · Fabric Inspection & ClassificationQuality & ComplianceRead the chapter lesson
- Chapter 16 · Colour Management & Shade ControlQuality & ComplianceRead the chapter lesson
- Chapter 17 · Material Testing & Textile LaboratoryQuality & ComplianceRead the chapter lesson
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Questions about this stage
Ask about stage 19, Fabric Inspection. No account needed — questions are published once reviewed, with the answer alongside them.
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